I was up and ready to leave at about 9am this morning. But I got up to the road, and realised that I had quite a wait for the next bus. So I set off walking, intending to get the bus further down the road. This was a fine idea in and of itself, but it turned into a bad choice once I'd got past the last stop for miles.
As the time for the bus approached, I tried to see a bus stop in the distance, but failed. So the bus merrily went by me, and I was left to walk the rest of the way to St Jean de Luz. This was a distance of about 8km. Oh well. The walk was enjoyable. But I had a lot of walking still ahead of me.
I got to Halt Routiere, and went to buy my bus ticket to Col de St Ignace, and discovered that the next bus wasn't until 2pm. I had done incomplete research. Less annoyingly, even if I'd got on the bus I intended to catch, I still wouldn't have made the earlier bus. Oh well. I consoled myself with the markets in St Jean de Luz, which were in full swing today. Many of the same stalls that had been in Hendaye were set up.
I bought another quiche, some olives from a lovely man who described each type and gave me a taste, and a tin of rillettes which could be used as back up. I ambled back through the port area to the end of the beach nearest the port entrance, and found a seat along the boardwalk to sit and eat my quiche and olives. They were tasty. There were lots of teenagers doing backflips off the diving pontoon.
I ambled further along the boardwalk, and treated myself to another ice cream (rude not to), and eventually went back to Halt Routiere to buy my ticket and wait for the bus. I wasn't left with an enormous amount of time, but I thought that I could always catch the train back down the mountain instead of attempting to walk it.
I boarded the bus to Col de St Ignace, which was mostly empty at this time of the day, and wended our way gradually uphill, on increasingly narrow roads, up into the hills. At Col de St Ignace, we got off, and I had a quick explore of the village. It was pretty enough, with an interesting looking souvenir shop, and a cafe set up. There was also a tourist information van, and I got a basic map of the walk downhill from some girls. A bunch of middle aged people were playing bad band music from their car stereo. It was a bit weird.
Ticket in hand, the little train arrived into the station, and I found a seat in an empty carriage. It was a very rustic train, with latched wooden half-doors with open tops and curtains. I soon had company in my carriage - it was fairly busy.
After quite a wait, we got underway up the hill. The first train took off first, and we followed behind a few minutes later. It went very slowly, but got steep quite quickly. Green slopes gave way to rock and cloud, and the first of the ponies. They were quite small, and some had enormous cowbells around their necks.
The trains stopped as we waited for the two others to come down to the passing place. We waved them past, and set off again up the hill. More cloud, woods, and some dyed sheep, and then we were above the clouds, and saw stark edges with walkers heading back downhill. And then the top was visible, with cafes, restaurants, and the tower that you can see from the sea.
The train stopped, and we disembarked. Upon checking the time, I realised that I would have to set off walking immediately in order to make it back to Col de St Ignace in time to get the last bus. I had a very cursory look around, and took a few photos. Sadly, the cloud meant that you couldn't see much of a view, and definitely couldn't see the sea. I said hello to a goat, and asked a jolly French man working on the train in bad French/sign language how to get to the path to walk down. He sent me over the train line (there were no fences or barriers), where I could see a sort of path, and so I set off down the mountain.
A couple set off at about the same time as me, and we paced each other for a while. The path was quite rocky, and quite steep, and really quite cloudy, and moved in zigzags. The couple were cutting the corners off, and I ended up doing the same to save time. The path wasn't always obvious, so I found myself constantly scanning for the yellow way markers to make sure I was on the right track.
We saw some ponies beside the path, and the couple stopped to say hi, so I managed to get ahead of them. I pushed on as fast as I could, passing signposts that just pointed to cloud, and measured the time against the way markers, which noted how long it would take to get down to Col de St Ignace. I had lost a bit of time, so really started moving.
I got to some ghostly woods, and heard some lone cowbells ringing out of the gloom. It was deadly silent apart from that, and really quite eerie. After that, the path went up and down, and around, and I passed a couple more people. Then it started going down in earnest, and I was making up decent time. I started pacing another couple, who had poles, and were doing it properly. Here it got very steep and rocky, and unprotected, and I found it very hard going.
Eventually, we got to a ferny forest gully, crossed a bridge over a stream, and saw signs of civilisation. It wasn't far from here on easy paths to the final bit of road, track, and the bus stop, which was an incredibly welcome sight. It was a good walk, but next time I'd like some more experienced company, and preferably an extra half hour!
I had made it with about 15 minutes to spare, which means I did it in one hour and 40 minutes. I had a look in the souvenir shop (which wasn't as exciting as I'd thought it would be), and bought an ice tea from the cafe (I'd drunk all my water and was thirsty). The bus came along on time, and we headed back down to St Jean de Luz.
Christian was waiting for me (it was sometime after 5pm), and we drove back to the campsite. Showers and changes of clothes were had, as the whole group was to head to a seafood restaurant in Hendaye for our final dinner.
We drove into town with Vicki, found a place to park (beating Annie there), and found the restaurant. It was small, but nice. Steve brought his wife, daughter and family. I had fish soup for a started, which was very large, and incredibly dense and filling (but tasty), and mussels for mains. Christian had ordered mussels for a starter, but got his main first, and then nothing else. He ended up finishing my soup for me, and enjoying it. I didn't order dessert, but tasted some of Christian's, and Annie ended up sharing hers with me. It was a nice meal.
We headed back to the campsite, did a bit of packing, and called it a night.