Richmond, day 4

Jess and I were up at 8am and I had a cup of tea after packing up the lounge room. We said goodbye and I walked down the hill to the marketplace. It had snowed more through the night so the ground was well covered, but the precipitation itself was decidedly wet. I bought something to eat and waited for the 9.25 bus to Darlington.

I found the bus stop no problems and nabbed the front seat at 10.40 for the trip back to Chester, arriving about 4.15. I got the bus to Tarvin, where Derek picked me up. The snow turned to rain as we’d headed south, but there was a while when to change lanes meant driving over uncleared snow. The driver was sensible, but I vowed to never drive in the snow.

Richmond, day 3

I was awake again at 8am and went down for my breakfast at 8.45. I walked straight down beside the river to see the waterfall, which was looking rather brown, and then to try to see the tower near the Green but couldn’t get in the park. The walk up the hill certainly warmed me up, though!

I then went to Richmond castle. While it wasn’t snowing, it was still very cold and the snow was deep. I saw the exhibition then ventured outside again. I started with the remains of Scollands Hall and then through the beautiful snowy garden of evergreens. There was little else to see in the grounds, so I went up the keep. It has been preserved very well and gave a wonderful view all around.

I called Jess when I was finished, and we agreed to meet for lunch at 1pm, which gave me an hour to look in the rest of the shops. We met at the monument in the middle of the square and went to the Bishop Blaize for lunch because of their £5.50 for two meals. Big mistake! Half the menu was unavailable and what we did get was horrid. Jess visited the post office and Boots and we headed to the theatre.

Dick Whittington started at 2.30 at the Georgian Theatre Royal and was fairly juvenile, though worth it for the clever cast and the surroundings. Jess’s cousin Gemma was scarred for life. Jess’s uncle and aunt, Nick and Clare, invited me to stay the night and so Jess and I walked up the hill to their house.

Nick cooked a brilliant Chinese meal and we drank too much wine. Jess started to show me her photos from France and Germany but we were called for dinner halfway through. Nick asked what I’d like to listen to on the stereo, and my answer was, of course, jazz and dance bands. This led to Nick tossing out about two dozen records from his collection to play on the turntable. Most of them looked good and what he played sounded good (only a few tracks from each record). Then he showed me his wind-up picnic gramophone, and I vowed to find one while I’m in England as they will only be around £50 and are quite portable. Then he brought out the original 1984 Band Aid record and Frankie Goes to Hollywood, and finally Stairways to Heaven and Queen. It was a very fun night. Jess and I stayed up talking and formulated a plan to travel after New Year’s – to London. I slept in a sleeping bag on the sofa and was very comfortable.

Richmond, day 2

I woke up at 8am and went downstairs for my included full English breakfast, which was lovely. I walked up to the marketplace in the snow and went straight to the post office to send my Cambridge application (Reporter?). I then bought a disposable camera from Boots because I couldn’t bear not capturing the snowy beauty around me. Then to the tourist office to see what I could do in winter since the info in my room said most castles and interesting places were only open Thursday to Sunday. The woman told me that the walk to Easby Abbey would be best, because I’d also get great views of the town. I asked about getting tickets to the pantomime the next day at the Georgian Theatre Royal. She pointed out the ticket office across the road and I bought a ticket.

On her advice, I walked up Maison Dieu and got some great photos of the town and then through the snow past some very cold-looking sheep to the Abbey ruins. It was very dramatic with the gravestones and jagged walls in the snow. I got snow in my shoes though, because it was so deep.

I walked back to town on the disused rail line beside the river and back up the hill, where I got fish and chips for lunch (or should I say fesh and cheps?). I then did the castle walk around the walls and looked in a few more shops before retiring gracefully to the guest house to warm up. I went out again to get some Thai for dinner from a lovely lady who worked there.

Richmond, day 1

The National Express coach left Chester at 1pm. It was a Newcastle-upon-Tyne coach stopping at Darlington. I started off near the back of the coach, but at our second stop, Manchester city (the first was Manchester airport) I managed to snaffle the seat directly behind the driver. We then stopped at Oldham, where there was snow on the ground, then Bradford – there was snow falling up on the highest motorway in England, the M62, just before it. Then we stopped at Leeds, Harrogate, Ripon (with its ‘Ye Horn-blower Tavern’) and arrived at Darlington just as the snow started in earnest at about 6.50pm.

I found the bus station and a local girl told me that as a holiday, the Sunday timetable was operating. This meant that I thought I would need to wait until 7.45 for the next bus to Richmond, so I went to Pizza Hut for dinner. It was yummy and I met some cool people. Back at the bus stop, the 7.45 driver told me to wait for the 8pm because his bus stopped at every village and took an hour. I got the next one and chatted to the nice driver as he negotiated the snowy road at a sensible pace.

He dropped me off up in the marketplace in Richmond, and I called the Old Brewery guest house for directions. I walked down the wet, slippery, snowy road, and found the guest house easily. The room was beautiful with brass bedheads, rose pattern bedspreads, and knick-knacks everywhere. Above all, it was WARM.

Wave Rock

Up at 6.30. Breakfast downstairs hurriedly after calling Aussie Perth to discover that pick-up was 7.15/7.30. They picked us up at 7.30 from the hotel.

Winding, foggy roads over the Darling Range. Quick stop in foggy York - didn't see anything. Pulled over at the Dog Cemetery, and stopped at a fuel station in Corrigin. Then on to Wave Rock, where we had a salady lunch, a walk on the rock, and a look at Hippo's Yawn

From there we drove straight back to Perth, and had a pizza dinner in Northbridge. I caught a shuttle to the airport at 9.15 - it was mostly empty. The radio was on, and when Don't Let Me Down by ELO came on, the few people on the bus all joined in. It was hilarious.

Northampton to Perth

Up at 6.30, breakfast at 7am, on the road by 7.30. Drove for half an hour to Hutt River Province to meet Prince Leonard. It is a sovereign state that seceded from Australia in 1970, and has its own currency, stamps, and flag. Yes, they're nutters - it's basically a tax dodge. I had a photo taken on the royal throne.

We drove on to have a short stop at a fuel station in Geraldton, and then on to a wildlife park at Greenough. It's a privately-owned rescue and rehabilitation centre. I remember handling a python in the sun at a picnic table, but not much else.

Then to lunch in Port Denison near Dongara. We had a short stop at Cataby, and dropped Harri at the station. Mike and I got back to the hotel at 5.30.

We did some washing and made some calls, and had dinner at Fishy Affair. After watching the Mummy Returns, we went to sleep at 11.20pm.

Denham to Monkey Mia to Northampton

We were up at 6.20am, had breakfast at 6.40, and were on the road by 7.10. We got to Monkey Mia after 8am, and went straight into the excruciatingly cold water. The wild dolphins rocked - I was chosen to feed one by hand and it was an amazing experience. They had such personality and sidled around us like they were teasing us.

We got out of the water and I got the feeling back in my legs and feet. Had a hot chocolate in the cafe (ahh!) and got some photos.

Drove on to Stonefish Lagoon and Ji drove the minibus onto the beach for a barbecue lunch. We had some group photos and stopped on the bluff on the way out for some more photos.

We stopped in Overlander to pick up Graham, and drove on to Northampton for our farmstay night. We had a walk. It was cold. Dinner. Fire. Bed.

Kalbarri to Denham

Up at 7.30, breakfast at 8. The wind had stopped and the sun was out.

We went to Hawks Head Gorge instead of Z-bend Gorge because of the rain that had fallen, so we had no abseiling. Stopped for fuel at Overlander, and had lunch at Hamelin Telegraph Station. We then investigated the stromatolites at Hamelin Pool, and Ji gave us a hilarious lesson on them.

We made another stop at Shell Beach, which is just as it sounds - a beach made completely of tiny perfect white shells. It was absolutely beautiful, and we all spent some quiet time taking it in.

We continued on to Denham, getting there before 5pm. There was a supermarket run, we had drinks on the beach, and then a barbecue dinner. Later we got into the bore water spa with some rowdy drunken Europeans. Bed before 11pm.

Perth to Kalbarri

Up at 6am (yuck). Cuppa upstairs as too early for breakfast. Caught free cat bus to Wellington St bus station. Western Exposure bus was 20 minutes late. We met Ji (the driver), Harri, Beate, and Lorna - it was a very small tour group, and the minibus was very spacious.

We stopped at Cataby, and went on to the Pinnacles. They were pretty amazing, and the threatening clouds around us made them even more interesting. They were formed due to deposits of relatively harder and softer rock being worn away by the elements. There is a lot of spiritual thought attached to them as well.

We had lunch under cover from the threatening rain in wildflower shop. It was a horribly windy and wet journey to Geraldton, I was very anxious about it. We stopped in Geraldton to go sand boarding, but I stayed in the bus and tried to ignore the buffeting of the wind.

There was more weather to Red Bluff just outside Kalbarri. We made a stop at a bottle shop, and then continued on to the backpackers. Satay, photos, bed 10pm.

Margaret River back to Perth

Up at 8am (?). It was too wet and windy to walk on the beach as planned. Breakfast at resort, Mike was ill.

Mike drove to Cape Mentelle - wine no good. Then to Leeuwin Estate - wine no good. It wasn't even 12pm, so we went back to town to find out about waterfalls.

Drove to the coast and then to Ellenbrook and Meekadarabee Falls. It was a boring walk, and the falls were a distinct anti-climax. Back to Voyager Estate. Brilliant wine, brilliant grounds and lunch. Sent wine to Pidge.

Back to town for $49 worth of fuel, and made a stop at the Margaret River Chocolate Company. Huge shop full of very tasty things.

We set off driving north, and made a stop at Cape Naturaliste, which is a wonderful wild promontory with a lighthouse. We had a walk, but an approaching storm meant that we needed to run back to the car poste-haste. We kept on north, and had a Macca's stop at Mandurah on the way. We reached Perth at about 9.30, drove the car to the airport, and got a bus back. We got to bed after 12am.

Perth to Margaret River

Up at 7.30am, money in meter at 8am. Breakfast downstairs. More money in meter at 9am, walk to Swan Bells. Still closed. Back to car and drive to King's Park. I particularly love the 28 (ringneck) parrots - bright green with black heads and yellow rings around their neck. They also have brilliant blue on their wings.

The park is big and very green, with a good view of the city. After a wander, we went back to the Swan Bells after 10am. Got to ring one - awesome - C# major scale.

I drove from the bells - short stop in Dawesville. Downpour just before Bunbury. Lunch in Bunbury (3pm).

Arrived in Margaret River at 5ish. Walk to beach to see sunset, got blown away (fun). Drive into town for dinner at the Margaret River Hotel.

Fremantle

Up at 8am, breakfast downstairs. Walk to Thrifty to collect car, leave at 9.30ish for Fremantle and make it there without getting lost, though uneasy about M's driving. Lots of roads closed, finally found the ferry wharf. Had to wait 45 minutes for next Rottnest ferry so took the cheaper ticket.

We boarded the ferry, and it was horribly bumpy, and I felt incredibly ill. On the island, I took it easy until I felt better, and then we had a walk to see what there was to see. We went towards the lighthouse, and spotted a few quokkas hiding in the shrubbery.

We sat down to eat some lunch, and then realised how tame the quokkas are. It was all we could do to keep them out of our sandwiches.

As it was off-season there wasn't an enormous amount to see on the island, though there was a beautiful peacock.

We got the boat back, and this time I was prepared - I stayed out on the deck and kept the horizon firmly in my sights.

Back in Fremantle, we had a look in the markets on the wharf - they were quite exciting. I remember seeing some Buddhist prayer flags in particular.

We went back to Perth, and to the hotel.

Newcastle to Perth

I flew from Newcastle to Perth through the day, arriving in mid-afternoon. The approach to Perth was extremely bumpy, and I felt almost as ill as I'd ever felt on a plane.

There was a woman with a baby sitting near me, and she was quite ill. As we went to get off the plane, I offered to help her carry all of her stuff. She responded by giving me the baby to carry. Not exactly what I had in mind, but we coped.

I got the shuttle into the city, and met Mike at the hotel (the Comfort Inn?).