The alarm
woke me at 7.30, I ate a cake, and trundled out the door to the bus station. I
took the wrong street, but a nice man guessed I was looking for the Estacion de
Autobus, and helped me on my way. I found the right window, establishing that
the last bus back was indeed 4.15, and somehow bought my ticket to La Linea (pronounced leenya)
from a man who spoke no English. It was €30 and left at 9am as advertised. I
found stand 22 and the bus came in soon after. I took my seat (22) next to a
man and we set off. I ate half my banana. The man next to me started to speak to
me in Spanish but I apologised and said I couldn’t speak it. He asked if I
spoke English, beginning a long conversation, all the way until he got off
nearly two hours later. He was Venezuelan, with Spanish parents. It was
interesting to speak to him, and he wanted to practice his English with me, having
learnt it in the US
20 years ago. There were Brits sitting behind me and Australians across from
me. The trip to La Linea was around 4 hours, and
parts were quite winding – we went though Tarifa and Algeciras.
We arrived with the rock clearly
in sight. I walked towards it and found the laughable border control. I flashed
my passport, went though ‘customs’ and was back on UK land. I got on the €2 all day
red open-topped bus and we crossed the airstrip and headed into the city
centre. There was a Safeway and ridiculous British pubs called ‘Pig and
Whistle’ etc. It was very crowded and high rise. I got off and walked through the
main shopping area, seeing M&S and all the other English shops. What a
joke. I couldn’t find a tourist office, but found the cable car fairly easily.
It was €13.50 for a return with an audio guide. I went up in the cable car with
a funny little English man who did a little commentary, warning us not to touch
the monkeys etc. At the top I paid €11 for the privilege of some not very nice
pasta and salad and ventured outside. The view was amazing and this strange
mist was coming off the ocean and being split by the moored ships.
The rock
itself was great. Spain
looked very sunny all laid out, but Morocco was extremely misty. The
monkeys were a bit weird sitting around, but were mostly minding their own
business. It was a bit scary when they sat where I wanted to walk – some stupid
people touched them. I went to get an audio guide as I’d seen some interesting
ruins I wanted to explore. I had to hand over my passport for the privilege and
got in trouble for taking it where I wanted to go. I went back up onto the
decks to listen to it. Turned out to be fairly useless anyway. It just talked
about the monkeys, a bit of general history, the tunnels, the Queen of Spain’s seat,
Queen Elizabeth offending the locals etc etc. I took it back, then went to
explore the interesting-looking ruins. There was no explanation at all, making
them not very interesting after all – just a heap of crumbling concrete.
I’d been going
to walk down, but time was getting short, so I took the cablecar. I was a bit
sorry to miss other things like caves, but I just couldn’t with the stupid bus
times. I walked back through the town, seeing the funniest sight yet – two beat
bobbies, dressed in full British uniform with fluorescent pinafores, speaking
Spanish, in 33 plus degrees!! How ridiculous! I found the bus stop in time for
the 3.45, waited for what seemed like ages, then the red bus turned up at 3.55.
It left promptly thank god, and got back to the border in less than 10 minutes.
I marched off, managing to ignore Spanish border control (I went back and
apologised and showed my passport) and kept marching/running to the bus
station, getting on the right bus just in time for 4.15. The trip was quite
pleasant this time – I didn’t get sick, I was in no hurry, and I listened to
the Beatles. I took some photos of the windmills.
With some
traffic, we got back to Sevilla at about 8.10. I was exhausted, so headed
around the corner from the bus station to the tram line for dinner. On the way,
a French/Moroccan guy picked me up on San
Fernando and wanted to go out for a drink at 12.45
that night after he finished work, so he could practise his English too. He
suggested a romantic bar playing flamenco music near the river, which sounded
quite good actually. He kissed me on both cheeks, which was a bit of a worry. I
got a sausage roll and cheese and bacon toasty thing with some gelato, and
headed back to the hotel. I think I was dehydrated, so drank lots of water. I
didn’t meet the guy, because I was too tired, and a little scared. He had bad
teeth anyway. I decided to leave Cádiz until Tuesday. I turned the light off at
10pm, intending to doze, but slept heavily all night.
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